3

Exfoliation: Mechanical and Chemical

Then, ideally, apply a serum with a specific action. Next, apply your favourite face cream. This whole routine should be completed, regardless of season, with a high-protection sunscreen which, in cases where you are exposed to the sun, should be reapplied. Naturally, the same applies to those who work indoors, as sunscreen protects the skin from the sun’s rays coming through the windows, and from the computer screen’s blue radiation that ages the skin.

What is their difference and when do we use each product, though?

By chemical exfoliation products, we mainly mean products that contain AHAs and BHAs, that is, Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy Acids. AHAs include glycolic, lactic, mandelic, malic, tartaric, and citric acids. In BHAs, the key ingredient is salicylic acid and its various derivatives.

What are their differences?

They are simple, but important! The most basic difference is their action. AHAs work on the outside of the skin, gently cleansing it, while BHAs exfoliate the outside as well as the pores. This is why BHAs leave the skin drier, while AHAs leave it more hydrated. It appears that AHAs help in the formation of collagen, while BHAs reduce inflammation. Due to this, we often find BHAs in anti-acne products or pore cleansers, while AHAs is more common in cleansers for sensitive skin. We don’t feel the change on the skin the same way in chemical peeling as we do in mechanical peeling, where, with the scrubbing, we can see and feel the difference. Chemical exfoliants work without friction and are usually used at night. The acids in these products are not necessarily artificial in nature. They often occur in fruit or their juices, which are then added to different cosmetic products.

Where should it be applied and why?

Ideally, mechanical peeling should be avoided on the face, especially when there is acne. Barring the fact that by rubbing, the skin becomes scratched and causes small wounds, various germs from the pimples get spread all over the face. On the contrary, peeling is great for the body, since it removes dead cells, helps with ingrown hairs, and improves blood circulation.

Scientific references

  1. The use of antioxidants in skincare
    Graf, Jeannette M.D. Antioxidants and Skin Care: The Essentials, Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery: January 2010 – Volume 125 – Issue 1 – p 378-383
  2. The moisturising effects of Panthenol
    Camargo FB Jr, Gaspar LR, Maia Campos PM. Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations. J Cosmet Sci. 2011 Jul-Aug;62(4):361-70. PMID: 21982351.
  3. Research into the anti-aging properties of Andrographis paniculata
    J.You, et.al., The Antiaging Properties of Andrographis paniculata by Activation Epidermal Cell Stemness, Molecules 2015, 20(9), 17557-17569
  4. Study into the properties of potato peel
    Singh, B., Singh, J., Singh, J.P., Kaur, A. and Singh, N. (2020), Phenolic compounds in potato (Solanum tuberosum L.) peel and their health‐promoting activities. Int J Food Sci Technol, 55: 2273-2281.
  5. Hops Extract for anti-inflammatory and antioxidant value
    N. Weber, et.al., Hop Extract Acts as an Antioxidant with Antimicrobial Effects against Propionibacterium Acnes and Staphylococcus Aureus, Molecules 2019, 24(2), 22
  6. Study into the benefits of avocado oil
    Allan Woolf et.al., Avocado Oil, Gourmet and Health-Promoting Specialty Oils, 2009, AOCS Press, p. 73-125
  7. Al-Ghazzewi FH, Tester RF. Impact of prebiotics and probiotics on skin health. Benef Microbes. 2014 Jun 1;5(2):99-107. doi: 10.3920/BM2013.0040. PMID: 24583611.
  8. Allantoin in wound healing, Araújo LU, Grabe-Guimarães A, Mosqueira VCF, Carneiro CM, Silva-Barcellos NM. Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoin. Acta Cir Bras. [serial on the Internet] 2010 Sept-Oct;25(5).
  9. Prebiotics and minimising skin irritation in body wash gels.
    Nizioł-Łukaszewska, Z., Bujak, T., Wasilewski, T., & Szmuc, E. (2019). Inulin as an effectiveness and safe ingredient in cosmetics, Polish Journal of Chemical Technology, 21(1), 44-49.
  10. Göbel, H., Schmidt, G. and Soyka, D. (1994), Effect of peppermint and eucalyptus oil preparations on neurophysiological and experimental algesimetric headache parameters. Cephalalgia, 14: 228-234
    McKay DL, Blumberg JB. A review of the bioactivity and potential health benefits of peppermint tea (Mentha piperita L.). Phytother Res. 2006 Aug;20(8):619-33. doi: 10.1002/ptr.1936. PMID: 16767798.
    Borhani Haghighi A, Motazedian S, Rezaii R, Mohammadi F, Salarian L, Pourmokhtari M, Khodaei S, Vossoughi M, Miri R. Cutaneous application of menthol 10% solution as an abortive treatment of migraine without aura: a randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled, crossed-over study. Int J Clin Pract. 2010 Mar;64(4):451-6
    Ozmen, Tarik & Dogan, Hanife & Gunes, Gokce. (2020). Effect of classic massage with peppermint oil on muscle soreness and muscle strength during recovery from exercise. 11. 103-111.
    Balakrishnan, A. (2015). Therapeutic uses of peppermint –A review. Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research. 7. 474-476.
  11. Charlton A. Medicinal uses of tobacco in history. J R Soc Med. 2004 Jun;97(6):292-6.

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Scientific references

  1. The use of antioxidants in skincare
    Graf, Jeannette M.D. Antioxidants and Skin Care: The Essentials, Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery: January 2010 – Volume 125 – Issue 1 – p 378-383

  2. The moisturising effects of Panthenol
    Camargo FB Jr, Gaspar LR, Maia Campos PM. Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations. J Cosmet Sci. 2011 Jul-Aug;62(4):361-70. PMID: 21982351.

  3. Research into the anti-aging properties of Andrographis paniculata
    J.You, et.al., The Antiaging Properties of Andrographis paniculata by Activation Epidermal Cell Stemness, Molecules 2015, 20(9), 17557-17569

  4. Study into the properties of potato peel
    Singh, B., Singh, J., Singh, J.P., Kaur, A. and Singh, N. (2020), Phenolic compounds in potato (Solanum tuberosum L.) peel and their health‐promoting activities. Int J Food Sci Technol, 55: 2273-2281.

  5. Hops Extract for anti-inflammatory and antioxidant value
    N. Weber, et.al., Hop Extract Acts as an Antioxidant with Antimicrobial Effects against Propionibacterium Acnes and Staphylococcus Aureus, Molecules 2019, 24(2), 22

  6. Study into the benefits of avocado oil
    Allan Woolf et.al., Avocado Oil, Gourmet and Health-Promoting Specialty Oils, 2009, AOCS Press, p. 73-125

  7. Al-Ghazzewi FH, Tester RF. Impact of prebiotics and probiotics on skin health. Benef Microbes. 2014 Jun 1;5(2):99-107. doi: 10.3920/BM2013.0040. PMID: 24583611.

  8. Allantoin in wound healing, Araújo LU, Grabe-Guimarães A, Mosqueira VCF, Carneiro CM, Silva-Barcellos NM. Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoin. Acta Cir Bras. [serial on the Internet] 2010 Sept-Oct;25(5).

  9. Prebiotics and minimising skin irritation in body wash gels.
    Nizioł-Łukaszewska, Z., Bujak, T., Wasilewski, T., & Szmuc, E. (2019). Inulin as an effectiveness and safe ingredient in cosmetics, Polish Journal of Chemical Technology, 21(1), 44-49.

  10. Göbel, H., Schmidt, G. and Soyka, D. (1994), Effect of peppermint and eucalyptus oil preparations on neurophysiological and experimental algesimetric headache parameters. Cephalalgia, 14: 228-234
    McKay DL, Blumberg JB. A review of the bioactivity and potential health benefits of peppermint tea (Mentha piperita L.). Phytother Res. 2006 Aug;20(8):619-33. doi: 10.1002/ptr.1936. PMID: 16767798.
    Borhani Haghighi A, Motazedian S, Rezaii R, Mohammadi F, Salarian L, Pourmokhtari M, Khodaei S, Vossoughi M, Miri R. Cutaneous application of menthol 10% solution as an abortive treatment of migraine without aura: a randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled, crossed-over study. Int J Clin Pract. 2010 Mar;64(4):451-6
    Ozmen, Tarik & Dogan, Hanife & Gunes, Gokce. (2020). Effect of classic massage with peppermint oil on muscle soreness and muscle strength during recovery from exercise. 11. 103-111.
    Balakrishnan, A. (2015). Therapeutic uses of peppermint –A review. Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research. 7. 474-476.

  11. Charlton A. Medicinal uses of tobacco in history. J R Soc Med. 2004 Jun;97(6):292-6.